1980s Bennett 10 speed Restoration

Here’s the Bennett is its current state of restoration and partial reassembly. It is looking pretty good so far and I am hoping it will go well when I am finished! I’ve encountered a few obstacles along the way. I am not sure how to go with mounting the rear mudguard yet ….The mounting bracket will just fit behind the rear axle bolt but this won’t be a satisfactory solution I think. As you can see from the photo, it is too long for the hole on the frame above, so I will have to get another stay for the mudguard.

I was originally intending to paint the faux lug around the head badge silver, but now I think I will leave it black as there is plenty of chrome and alloy around it …You can see some of the bubbled paint in this photo, but the photo makes it look worse than it is. I have sanded and retouched some of the bubbling and it has come up fine. Once I have finished putting all the parts back on, I will touch up some more of the bubbling as well as the inevitable paint chips that happen while working on the bike.

I still have to source handlebars and possibly brake levers (I’d like to keep the original brake levers if possible) and  decide what to do about tyres. I looked at some white tyres but heard that they are not good quality so I may stick to gumwalls. There is not a lot of choice in 27″ tyres unfortunately, some whitewalls would have looked really good.

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9 Responses to 1980s Bennett 10 speed Restoration

  1. anniebikes says:

    Looking good! I wasn’t sure I’d like the black frame, but it looks snazzy. I’m impressed that you took the whole bike apart.

    • Vicki says:

      I didn’t take everything apart Annie, but I took it far more apart than I thought I ever would, and I’ve had just a little help getting it together again and there is a way to go yet. My idea with the black is “understated and classy”, I hope I’ve achieved it!

  2. Wayne Martin says:

    I just noticed the Weinmann brakes, they were a touch of class and good workmanship in their day, expensive too. Are they still around or have they been swollowed up?

    • Vicki says:

      I thought they may have been a classy brake brand Wayne, the calipers are marked as made in Switzerland …. I don’t know much about them though.

  3. petermc says:

    I had the same problem with the Road King guards, Vicki, the amount of thread holding on the wheel nut isn’t safe. I would try to use the small holes on the dropout but that means cutting and re-bending the stay or cutting it off shorter and clamping it with a made-up bracket using the one or two holes there. I was lucky to find an old spare stay that was a shorter length …

    I wonder how those moustache bars with bar tape would look on it? You can use them upside down ( right way up?) too, if they are too low.

    Also you can get stem shifters new from V.B.R. if you don’t want to lean down to change – they are the exact Sun Race ones on my bike, new! You would need to cut some longer cable outers to reach them, but it’s an easy job to do.

    http://www.vintagebicyclerebuilds.net.au/derailleurs-shifter-parts-c-126.html?page=2&sort=20a

    • Vicki says:

      Hmmm, cutting and bending sounds difficult, any tips on how to do this as the metal is quite thick.
      I will keep the downtube shifters, I think I will be fine with them even with different bars.
      Talking of bars, I am hoping to keep the current brake levers as they are also Weinmann and look good, though the “suicide levers” will have to go, I’ve put a picture of one of them into the post, I think they would work well with moustache bars, any ideas?

  4. petermc says:

    Ooops sorry Vicki, they are downtube ones, the indexed ones on the left are the stem shifters … they would work too.

  5. petermc says:

    Bending will be difficult – this is how I fixed my rear guard to the speedwell rack with the copper water pipe straps – if it works in reverse for your dropout holes you could cut the stay curve straight off with a hacksaw and file the sharp end clean… /Users/petermcnaughton/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2012/05/07/20120507-091657/IMG_0564.jpg
    The moustache bars would need the levers in the horizontal plane to work, it would be unnatural to use, I think. Those levers need to be on a sharp bend for clearance. Have a look at the Dia-compe DC188 reverse levers on velogear.com.au for something different.
    /Users/petermcnaughton/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/05/07/20120507-091657/IMG_0565.JPG

    • Jess says:

      Moustache bars with the dia compe 188 reverse levers are the ones I’ve picked up for the Peugeot….. Still a ways to go!
      You are welcome to come and have a look if you like. Also, if you want to stick to drop bars to use your current levers, there’s always the ones on the old purple racer in my garage. They are not as narrow and aggressive as the ones on the Bennett.

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